What’s this southern barbecue joint doing across the road from Lake Erie?

Despite the geography, this is real deal, not just in the pork offerings but in the smalltown charm. Go for a combo – get what you like but you must get ribs for glazed, smoky bliss. In our last visit the runner-up meat was pulled pork.

There was a split vote on the perch, with the non-meat-eating component of The Second Dinner staff hugely enthusiastic while the other one wasn’t dissuaded from a meat focus.

As for the sides, beans got an excellent assist from their old friend pork, but mac-and-cheese wasn’t different enough than any other mac-and-cheese. There was strong support for the sweet potato fries, cole slaw and hush puppies.

The service was outstanding, with these out-of-towners getting a neighborly welcome from a waitress who eloquently answered our questions about the menu.