The Smith, at 55 Third Avenue in the Village, is a lot more colorful than its name suggests. On the second of my three visits there, my friend seemed surprised that I liked a place so Manhattan-ish, but the vibe is just on that borderline – trendy enough to draw the Manhattan crowd but friendly enough so that more humble types like me aren’t scared away. 

The meal opens with a brilliant subversion of the old still-or-sparkling scam. Bottles of regular and sparkling water are on the house, and the latter, respledent in its green bottle, was the perfect elixir for a hot summer day.

I’ll get to the sole negative now for instructional purposes. The prices aren’t exorbitant – most things in the low $20s – but you won’t be filled up on an entree alone. In short, great food but maybe some more potatoes or something on the side would help. So, back to the happier proclamations. A few years ago on my first visit I got the pork chop. The second trip featured the short rib. Both were first-rate but I was looking for something lighter this time.

My dining companion was kind enough to get the flounder – basically my 2nd choice – so that I could get the grilled shrimp. Both of the seafood items were excellently done – good flavors but no gimmicks.

And the accompaniments were quite appealing – for instance, the jalapeno grits for the shrimp and the sweet pea mash with the flounder.

And the hot fudge sundae dessert was rapidly devoured.

In short, this is a really fun spot, but the word has gotten out, so it may be a bit crowded if you go during prime time.