Market Broiler – Ontario, Calif.

After my first two visits I decided the Market Broiler chain was the best thing since sliced tilapia, while on the third and fourth visits I still enjoyed it but didn’t quite get that must-move-to-California feeling. One of the same fish impressed less the second time around (thresher shark) – did it change or did I change?

Round IV was at the Ontario Mills branch. Snapper from Oregon was too plain. While I appreciate the refusal to provide honest preparations instead of serving fish in drag (say, doused in pecan-crusted bacon whatnot), there just wasn’t much too it. It didn’t even have much of a broiler taste to it. Grilled catfish was better, though it may not appeal to those used to the fried-only variation.
The Yucatan shrimp cocktail was outstanding. The flavors were nearly as bright as the colors. It was spicy but not in a show-offy manner, and the shrimp were big and fresh. I just had to check out the pink clam chowder, combining red and white. In this case the whole wasn’t better than the sum of the parts – pretty good clam chowder but other than the unusual visual display there wasn’t any great purpose in combining them.

As always, the service was friendly, and the bread was excellent. Given the incredibly extensive menu, and memories of prior MB triumphs like the dramatic Fisherman’s Stew, I hope to return someday.

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